The Hindu Business Line : Offering the olive... oil

"While catering to tourists is one aspect of bolstering the GDP, trade and industry in Greece will have to reach out to new markets with their core products in the food industry, particularly olive oil and table olives."

AN OLIVE oil factory in the Peloponnese region of Greece, which is the third largest producer in the world.

(Recently in Greece)

In a country like Greece, where a fifth of the GDP comes from the tourism sector, cuisine forms an important aspect of the economy. Of late, both the Greek government and trade and industry organisations have been waking up to the fact that a small country with a population of only 11 million and limited production capacities has to make a concerted effort to generate income from its core areas of strength.

Those who have visited Greece and tasted the food there will vouch for the exceptionally high quality of cuisine, wine and other spirits. The Greek pride themselves on their `fine-dining' culture; in Athens, as well as in the smaller towns, going out to a restaurant for dinner is an exciting, though routine, activity. The early-to-bed-early-to-rise mantra doesn't work here.

The weekends especially are occasions to pamper the palate, raise a toast to Bacchus and listen to music. But, warns our guide Constantine: "It's an insult for anybody in Athens to go out for dinner before 11 pm. When the group of seven journalists on an "olive oil media tour" organised by the Madrid-based International Olive Oil Council (IOOC), protested against the delay, he shrugged and said: "Well, okay, if you go after 9 pm, maybe you'll get some food."

Vibrant tourism sector

According to the Minister of Economy and Finance, Mr George Alogoskoufis, last year, Greece attracted about 14 million travellers — more than one tourist per citizen. "We know that our visitors base a large part of their overall experience on how well they dine."

Writing in a publication brought out by HEPO (Hellenic Foreign Trade Board), he said: "In Greece, whether one finds oneself casually enjoying simple country food in a local taverna or haute cuisine in one of our many fine restaurants or hotels, the dining experience is always imbued with welcoming hospitality and warmth."

But while catering to tourists is one aspect of bolstering the GDP, trade and industry will have to be more outward looking and reach out to new markets with their core products in the food industry, particularly olive oil and table olives, says the HEPO President, Mr Panagiotis Papastavrou.

During an interaction with the visiting journalists, he said that even though the Greeks take a lot of pride in their "excellent food, wine and spirits, the Greek world of food and wine is still undiscovered in foreign markets, both among consumers and trade professionals." He ascribes "historic" reasons for this.

Of course, the Greek classics such as the spinach pie and roasted lamb, which Mr Papastavrou described as "our comfort food," were nationally popular, but organisations such as his were aware that it was time to get aggressive and launch a massive effort to spread awareness in different regions of the world that Greek food was much more than these two delicacies.

He added that barring a few specialty restaurants in London and New York that offered Greek cuisine, the rest of the world was still only vaguely aware that the olive oil-rich fare is not only tasty but also very healthy.

The journalists were reminded over and over again that medical research, particularly over the last 15 years, has proved the beneficial effects of the olive oil-rich Mediterranean cuisine, on the heart; olive oil provides protection against several chronic diseases, particularly diabetes.

Being rich in monosaturated fats, it is the secret of the good health and long life of people in the Mediterranean region.

Highest consumption

With an annual production of 4,00,000 tonnes of olive oil, Greece is the third largest producer in the world after Spain (this year's production is expected to touch 1.2 million tonnes) and Italy.

But as the Greeks use olive oil in all their preparations — from starters to desserts, and even for frying — it has the highest per capita consumption of olive oil in the world — the latest estimate is 23 kg. A major concern in the olive trade in Greeceis that the Italians import in bulk extra virgin olive oil from Greece, known for its excellent quality, blend it with local produce, package it and export it to other markets.

A Turkish delegate who was in Greece to participate in two IOOC meetings observed: "Everyone in the world knows that Italy only produces one fifth of the oil that it packages and markets all over the world."

Explaining the special attributes of extra virgin olive oil and how to get the best from it, he said, "Light is the biggest enemy of olive oil, like America is to Iraq, so it should be stored in a cool, dark place to enhance its life."

Then, dramatically pouring a portion of the olive oil kept on the table into a wine glass, smelling it, twirling it and swallowing it in a gulp, he declared: "This oil is at least one year old; it is still extra virgin and of good quality but not fresh. You can tell an extremely good and freshly produced extra virgin olive oil by its slightly bitter taste. And, it should be a little pungent as it goes down the throat, but only for a few seconds. This one is sweet and has less aroma and less bitterness, and hence has to be a year old."

Promoting Greek products

On the continuing efforts to promote Greek food products, Mr Papastavrou said that with several new-generation Greek chefs having helped to "reform and revisit" the traditional aspects of the cuisine, and the packaging industry having "jumped several decades virtually overnight," Greek table olives and olive oil products not only have the best quality but also enhanced appeal. "We are now ready to reach our products to a greater part of the international market."

Adding that HEPO was keen to explore the Indian market, which had "a huge potential," he said that it would be participating in the International Food Exhibition to be held at the Pragati Maidan in Delhi from December 7-9, where Greek food products, including table olives and olive oil would be on display.

HEPO is also organising a Trade Mission to Delhi and Mumbai from January 31 to February 4, "quite likely at a ministerial level, with the participation of important Greek enterprises from two sectors — food and beverage, and construction material."

The IOOC, created after the 1956 International Olive Oil Agreement, endeavours to organise the international olive oil market, and develop a united framework to defend and safeguard the olive tree and olive oil, and is extending all support to Greece, an important member-country, to promote its produce. Its mandate is to coordinate national production and marketing policies for olive oils and table olives, adopt rules and standards to ensure product authenticity and implement multidisciplinary activities in agriculture, science and technology.

As the IOOC Executive Director, Mr Habib Essid, told Business Line, the IOOC looked upon the olive tree in any country as a sacred and valuable national treasure. After the recent Israel-Lebanon stand-off — both are members of the IOOC — Lebanon complained to the Council that Israel during the bombings had particularly targeted its olive trees.

"While I told them that this is not a political forum and such issues should be raised at the United Nations, I also underlined the importance of protecting olive trees and said that as we protect and treasure our ancient monuments, in a similar way we should also protect and treasure our olive trees, for its products have such a huge benefit for mankind."

Response may be sent to rasheeda@thehindu.co.in

More Stories on : International Travel | Oilseeds & Edible Oil | Tourism

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