• PAGE ONE
• INDEX
• HOME

Getting to know Kodai

Lalitha Sridhar

A holiday turns out to be a very happy one if the destination is affordable, accessible and amazing. But thats a big if and there arent too many places which manage to be even one, forget all.

Many of us develop a wary reluctance to seek the cool countryside only to find its actually a hotspot, overrun by members of our own tribe - tourists. What is the point in trying to get away far from the madding crowd only to find that we were beaten to it by a zillion people (or so it feels, anyway) having exactly the same idea? And yet, for the family looking for some fun, it is these very same favourite tourist destinations which prove most convenient - they are easy to approach and kiddie friendly.

Nevertheless, wanderlust comes with dollops of hopeful optimism and rarely would you find the hardworking holidayer giving up and retreating to his armchair. And his intrepid patience is rewarded by moments of magic, the kind that can be relived in the f amily album. Some such memories, whole suitcases of it, is to be found in Kodaikanal.

Nestled in the Palani Hills of the Western Ghats, it has attracted considerable attention and enduring popularity. Unarguably one of the best of the few hill-stations the South has, Kodai is remarkable for many reasons. It has been deluged by a merciless onslaught of outsiders but has coped with astounding alacrity. Its the sort of place you can hang around for a week and still find something new to do every single day.

Unlike Munnar or the Silent Valley, its not a recent discovery. And it has something for everybody the trekker, the honeymooner, the foodie, the leisure seeker, the adventure traveller, the whole family.

The hills are a green and gorgeous and temperature drops perceptibly on the superb climb from Kodai Road. The bus-stop is a crowded chaos but the town itself hasnt (yet) fallen prey to the pollution. The streets are clean and the walks safe. One can hire a vehicle and spend a whole day being merrily shunted from point to pretty point - its completely enjoyable with everything from various waterfalls to a quaint flora and fauna museum on the eclectic itinerary.

Bryants Park Botanical Garden, named after the British officer who painstakingly stocked many specimens, is testimony to some lovely landscaping. Its also home to a verdant greenhouse that is just as gorgeous. Other popular haunts include the misty Coake rs Walk which overlooks the Kodai Valley, the majestic Pillar Rocks, the old Astrophysical Laboratory, the splendid, sloping Chettiar Park, the small and big waterfalls. The Kurinji Andavar Temple, small and peaceful, also has the rare Kurinji plant. Uni que to the Western Ghats, it flowers only once in twelve years (the next blossoms, says the board, are expected in 2004). At nightfall, the shrines view showcases the lights across the hills with the famous temple at Palani visible across the hilly dista nce. For the religiously inclined, a days trip to the temple at Palani is possible.

If the boating is beautiful and the horse-riding hoary, cycling is a great way to go around too. Shops hire out bicycles (even childrens sizes) and its the perfectly pleasant way to cover the circumference of the lake, among other things. Although the br eathtakingly beautiful Berijam Lake is not on any common itinerary and is mostly shown as a distant view on one of the conducted tours, it is highly recommended that a special effort be made to see it.

The lake occupies the central place of pride and it deserves to. By normal tourist standards of exploitation, the water is abundant, clean and the boating sheer fun. The range of fruits across all seasons is unmatched - giant custard apples, juicy guavas , plentiful plums and lush pears are, happily, as unavoidable as the coal-roasted tender corn. Home-made chocolate is a veritable cottage industry with little (again, apparently, home-made) signboards luring the passer-by with promises of paradise. Check out the neat Spencers Department Store near the main market road, for a whole range of essentials plus indulgences such as cheeses, chocolates, pastries and marzipan. Other purchases can include eucalyptus oil and unique, little, hand- crafted knickknac ks reliable places to head for include the popular, charitable Cottage Crafts Shop on Bazaar Road and the warmly lit log cabin right on the shore of the lake, opposite to the Boat Club.

Kodai is reportedly the only Indian hill station to have been set up by the Americans. The British came later. Quite like Dehradun, this is a place that many have chosen to settle in or maintain as a personal haven. Many roads are lined with splendid bun galows with long driveways.

Such extensive private ownership has probably played a crucial role in preventing hotels from taking over the undulating landscape and helped retain the charm of tended flower gardens and rough stone architecture.

The local council is environmentally aware - plastic bags are banned across shops and even roadside vendors enforce the rule for fear of reprisal. On the flip side, Kodaikanal does have a perennial water scarcity problem though most hotels manage to ensu re it doesnt affect their guests. Regardless, purchasing bottled water can save you from a lot of unwanted trouble. 5

Picture by the author

Fact File

How to get there:

By air : Madurai (121 kilometers, five hours drive including the ghat road to Kodai) is the closest airport.

By train : Palani (accessed from Coimbatore) and Kodai Road (on the Chennai-Madurai route) are the closest railway stations, both approximately three hours away. Excellent and cheap bus connectivity is available though the roaring rattletraps tend to sto p to pick up anyone who so much as stands by the wayside.

By bus : Long-haul, state-run buses connect Bangalore, Chennai and Coimbatore plus the whole range of smaller towns.

How to get around : Once there, cabs are the only transport available to move within Kodai and the minimum fare - Rs 50. But a twenty minute fast walk can (mostly) get you just about wherever you want to go.

What to pack: Mild woolens are essential even during the peak summer season. A good pair of walking shoes will make your stay all the more enjoyable. Sunscreen lotion is a must while boating during the day. Keep an umbrella handy, you can never be sure w hen you will be serenaded by gentle showers.