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Fortune's seductions

N.Shiva Kumar

Towering high above the surrounding landscape, the massive fort of Daulatabad is a prominent historical site in the Deccan region. The fort has been built around a 700-ft rocky outcrop in the undulating terrain of north Maharashtra.

Daulatabad (originally called Devagiri or hill of the gods) was once a bustling township with lavish buildings, lush landscapes and prosperous people. Even today, the dilapidated fortifications ring with stories of bygone eras.

One of the more famous of these relates to Mohammad-bin-Tughlaq, the emperor who shifted his capital all the way from Delhi to Devagiri and renamed it Daulatabad (city of fortune).

After forcing even the population of Delhi to undertake the rigorous 1,000-km journey down south, circumstances forced the emperor to return to Delhi at the end of a 17-year `itch' in Daulatabad!

Located 15 km northwest of Aurangabad, Daulatabad is considered one of the greatest and intricate forts of the Deccan region. The city's defence was ensured by the exemplary masonry and stonework, consisting of a succession of eight unyielding gateways. The three concentric high walls contain several strategically placed bastions. The outer periphery wall is smooth and sloping, making it impossible to scale.

Stone blasting and elephant-mounted assaults proved equally ineffective in breaching the fort. The main entrance used to be guarded by a wide and deep moat infested with man-eating crocodiles that were deliberately kept hungry. The fort can be entered by means of a drawbridge. The path then descends rapidly through a flight of steps and rises again through a second flight of steps that lead to a gallery and the inside of the fort.

During a siege, the moat along with the bridge could be flooded, cutting off entry to the fort and the king's palace.

The sprawling fort of Daulatabad is divided into three zones: the conical hill is known as Balakot while the circular walled area below it forms the inner fort, Kataka. The outer fort is called Ambarkot. Both Kataka and Ambarkot feature double and even t riple lines of massive walls set at strategic angles and riddled with slit-holes and battlements for espying.

The three gateways leading to Kataka can be approached only through complicated pathways that often lead to blind alleys in order to confuse enemies. Without the local guide, I could have easily been lost among the interconnecting passages.

The gateways consist of massive wooden doors studded with great iron spikes to keep off stubborn men and strong elephants. Ancient cannons can still be found on the bastions of the fort. The innermost Balakot is further protected by a rock-cut trench tha t can be crossed only by means of a drawbridge.

The fort area is dotted with several royal and religious structures that are now in ruins. Ongoing excavations, particularly in Kataka, are showing up relics of courtly residences, waterworks and other interesting structures which mainly date back to the Bahmani dynasty. A present-day village thrives in the area.

The best preserved structures at Daulatabad are the Jami Masjid and Chand Minar in the Kataka fort area. The magnificent mosque was built in 1318 during the fort's occupation by Outbuddin Mubarak, the Khilji ruler of Delhi. Comprising 106 columns arrange d in 25 walkways, the mosque has a large courtyard and prayer hall.

Strangely enough, the Jami Masjid was never provided with a minaret; the tall and graceful Chand Minar, located a short distance away, functioned as a prayer tower and as a highly visible victory monument. The 200-ft high tower has a 70-ft circumference at the base and is divided into four storeys separated by three diminishing balconies. A brass crescent moon crowns the top of the tower. Some of the motifs and colourful glazed tiles adorning the tower have escaped the ravages of time.

The royal quarters feature a labyrinth of halls, pavilions, and courts which are now in a dilapidated condition. One of the few well-preserved structures is the Chini Mahal, so called because of the blue-and-white Chinese tiles used in its masonry. The i nside of the pavilion is dominated by a double-storeyed hall roofed with arches and arcaded chambers. The stucco decoration, especially medallions with geometric and arabesque motifs, date the structure to the 15th century.

Historians aver that the city was a monument of misdirected energy and fortune smiled feebly on it before fading away after a few centuries.

My exploration of Daulatabad started with an early morning walk through the fort and ended at the top-most point by noon. The top spot provided fabulous views of the surrounding countryside even as Aurangabad town looked like a tiny village in the distan ce. Invigorating cool breeze wafted in from the ramparts of the fort, regaling me with thoughts of the kingly kind. After rambling for nearly five hours and taking a breather, I stole a few wonderful moments to feel like a Maharaja contemplating the larg e empire lying at his feet.

A history of invincibility

Daulatabad (originally Devagiri) was the command centre of the Yadavas, the most powerful rulers of Marathwada until the region's conquest by rulers from Delhi in 1296. It was the principal stronghold of the Tughlaqs in the Deccan and, later, their princ ipal capital. It was at Daulatabad that the Bahmani monarchs first declared their independence from Delhi in 1347. Remaining under Bahmani control throughout the 15th century, the Daulatabad fort remained an impregnable stronghold. In the 16th and 17th c enturies it was fought over by the Nizam Shahis and Mughals and eventually came under Mughal rule until Aurangzeb's death in 1707. Later it passed into the hands of the Hyderabad kings.

Fact file

How to get there

By road: Daulatabad is 15 km from Aurangabad which is well connected by road to all major cities.

By train: There are convenient trains to Aurangabad from Mumbai, Delhi and Hyderabad.

By air: The nearest airport is at Aurangabad which has regular flights to Mumbai.

Where to stay: There are several low budget and mid-range hotels at Aurangabad. At the top end are the Taj Residency and President Park.

When to visit: Round the year. While summers are hot, winters are mild. You will need minimum winter-wear in the early mornings and evenings.

Getting around: In the absence of good maps, it is advisable to hire a guide to take you around the fort.

For more information: Contact I.R.V. Rao, Information Officer, Government of India Tourist Office, Station Road, Aurangabad.

Or visit www.aurangabad-ajanta-ellora.com

Pic.: A rust-proof, revolving cannon inside the Daulatabad fort.

Picture by N.Shiva Kumar