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Amidst soothing stillness

Neeta Gupta

Tucked away in the hills of Uttaranchal, the sheer beauty of the lakes of Kumaon makes the arduous uphill journey worth the effort. If you want to omit Nainital from your itinerary, then head straight for the serene and beautiful lakes in and around the district.

We set off from Delhi, drove via Moradabad, Rampur and Haldwani and, finally, ascended the mountains beyond Kathgodam -- the last railhead in Nainital district. One can also take a convenient overnight train to Kathgodam and hire a cab or even share one to travel uphill. We took the Haldwani-Bhowali road from Kathgodam, bypassing Nainital, and despite the many halts for tea and snacks, we reached Bhimtal in an hour's time.

Situated 1,371 metres above sea level, Bhimtal draws its name from the legendary Pandava prince, Bhim, and Lord Shiva. Though the lake can be visited all year round, it is better to avoid summer when the tourist inflow is heavy. The area is best visited during spring, autumn and winter months.

Not more than six hours from Delhi by car, it can be an ideal weekend getaway for stressed-out city-dwellers. A little island in the lake, which is very popular with children, offers a panoramic view of the mountains huddled around the lake. The tourist guest-house here is clean and comfortable, besides being light on the pocket.

The nine-cornered Naukuchiatal, near Bhimtal, is famed for its fish and migratory birds. At any time of the year it is possible to relax and take in the quiet pleasures at one of the private resorts set around the lake.

Bhowali, about 10 km from Bhimtal, is the junction for those travelling to Almora, Jageshwar, Mukteshwar, Munsiari and so on. The road to Bhowali is lined by several attractive resorts, especially the one at Mehragaon that even has an indoor swimming poo l. Bhowali boasts of a large fruit market where tourists can pick up a range of fruits to take home.

Close by, Saat Tal is a conglomeration of seven interconnected lakes which forms one of the most picturesque lake resorts in Kumaon. There are regular bus services to Saat Tal from Bhimtal and Bhowali, besides several conducted tours beginning at Nainita l.

Naini Lake is about 16 km from Bhowali. Its emerald waters have drawn visitors for more than a century. From a ragged forest reserve, the place has grown into a popular holiday resort dotted with the summer residences of upper middle-class families from Uttar Pradesh and Delhi.

The name `Nainital' owes to a legend, according to which the eyes of Sati -- consort of Lord Shiva -- fell at this spot. There is even a temple dedicated to Sati, who is revered as Naina Devi.

The other famous lake in the region is the Nal Damayanti Tal.

Besides lakes, the Kumaon region is replete with temples, some of which offer a panoramic view of the neighbouring mountain ranges. The temple dedicated to Golu Devta at Ghorakhal, above Bhowali, is an instance of local heroes being assimilated into the Hindu pantheon. The practice of animal sacrifice also continues in some temples. The scenic Neemkaroli Baba's Ashram at Kainchi is also worth a visit.

Fact file

How to get there

By air: The closest airport is at Pantnagar.

By rail: The closest railhead is at Kathgodam. Taxis and buses are easily available for trips to Bhimtal and Nainital.

By road: One can drive down from Delhi, via Moradabad, Rampur and Haldwani.

Where to stay: There are a number of hotels to suit every budget. Besides the private resorts, Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam guest houses are also available.

Pic.: The serene surroundings of Bhimtal.

Picture by Neeta Gupta