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Where flamingos flock together...

Ch. R.S. Sarma

During winter, if a visitor alights at Sulluripeta railway station in Nellore district -- the last stop in Andhra Pradesh for many Chennai-bound express trains -- and takes a bus to the Sriharikota Space Research Centre, he/she is most likely to stumble upon a flock of flamingoes in the Pulicat lake. The sight is rendered even more exquisite when the multi-hued birds take wing. Although this is a familiar sight for employees of the space research centre, the thrill is not lost on them entirely.

Sulluripeta, 70-80 km from Chennai, is on the Vijayawada-Chennai section and most express trains halt here. The small town owes its development to the space research station at Sriharikota.

The vast brackish-water lagoon is spread over parts of Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu and is believed to be the second-largest in the country after Chilika in Orissa. Apart from flamingos, Pulicat also attracts other migratory birds such as pelicans and p ainted stork. There are several indigenous birds, too, many of which are listed as endangered species.

Realising the region's potential for tourism, the Andhra Pradesh Government recently organised a Flamingo Festival to draw attention to several local attractions. ``The festival will be an annual event and, every year, we plan to name the tourism festiva l after one migratory bird,'' says E.V.S. Naidu, co-convener of the festival.

The lake's proximity to a metropolitan city (Chennai) and a pilgrimage centre (Tirupati) makes for easy access. However, other tourist amenities are sorely absent. Nellore District Collector Praveen Kumar is enthusiastic about developing the lake into a tourist zone, albiet taking care not to disrupt the region's fragile eco-system.

Due to badly planned development activities, the exotic migratory birds and the lake which feeds them are in danger. In a belated recognition of the dangers, and to focus on the problems plaguing the bird sanctuary and the wetland, the State Government o rganised a seminar recently. Experts say that with proper environmental protection, tourism could be promoted in the Pulicat which can generate employment opportunities for the local populace. The experts also emphasise the need for dredging at the mouth of the lake, near the Bay of Bengal, to mitigate the siltation problem.

According to ecologists, at the present rate of siltation, the lake is likely to be reduced to a huge marsh within 80 years. This would, in turn, destroy the Pulicat bird sanctuary, robbing the livelihoods of several fisher villages in Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu.

Over-exploitation of fisheries, especially prawns, is also posing a serious threat to the lake's flora and fauna. Experts are demanding stringent regulations on fishing activity in the area. ``Outsiders should be banned from fishing in the lake and even the locals, who are traditionally dependent on the lake, can be shown alternative avenues of employment by developing tourism,'' says an environmental expert.

``There is no need for external source of funding as tourism, properly promoted, can generate enough funds to save the lake, fishermen and birds,'' says an official of the Centre for Environmental Education. At present, there are practically no facilitie s for bird-watchers at Nelapattu, Tada and other places, she adds.

Mangrove regeneration is equally vital for the survival of the lake as there are hardly any left; a few voluntary organisations are involved in this project.

``An action plan for protecting the lake at a cost of Rs 35 lakh has been drawn up and would be implemented within a year,'' says Nellore District Forest Officer Bhaskar Reddy. An elaborate five-year plan is also in the offing.

While Sulluripeta lacks adequate facilities for tourists, even the nearest major town, Nellore, does not offer much in the way of amenities. Currently the best approach to the region is from Chennai which has good air and rail connections.

Properly conserved and developed, Pulicat has the potential to become as fine a bird sanctuary as Bharatpur in North India.

Fact file

Location: Sulluripeta is roughly 80-90 km either from both Nellore or Chennai.

Getting there: A tourist can fly to Chennai and get to Pulicat by road or train. Most express trains, except superfast trains such as Coromandel and the Howrah-Chennai, stop at Sulluripeta station. There are convenient Chennai-bound express trains from H yderabad and Vijayawada junction.

Best season: October to March.

Getting around: Boats fitted with outboard motors are available for patrolling and bird-watching.

Accommodation: There are guesthouses at Sulluripeta and Tada and also the SHAR rest-house at Sriharikota.

Picture: Flamingos at the Pulicat lake