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Where mythology comes alive

N Shiva Kumar

``Every time I visit Corbett National Park, I am reminded of episodes from the Indian epics -- the Ramayana and Mahabarata,'' I told my friend who, however, refused to believe me. ``Today, there are few places that can be related to the thick jungles vividly illustrated in the epics...''

When my friend -- a thoroughly city-bred person -- remained unconvinced, I took her on a visit to the park to see for herself.

Established in 1936 as Hailey National Park, the reserve was renamed in 1974 in memory of the famous hunter-turned-conservationist cum author, Jim Corbett. Nestling in the foothills of the mighty Himalayas in Uttar Pradesh, Corbett National Park is one of the country's finest wildlife sanctuaries. The park has unique attractions that beckon not only tourists but also ornithologists, cat specialists, botanists and other wildlife experts from all over the world. Here you can see the majestic tiger in pristine, natural surroundings, as also other exciting wildlife.

Spread over 1,320 sq km in the Shiwalik ranges, the park is known for its scenic charm, riverine vistas and lush vegetation. The park's dense growth of trees and mixed deciduous forests are interspersed with grasslands in the valley; a mult itude of insects, birds, reptiles, amphibians and mammals thrive here. We saw large monitor lizards on three occasions, scampering among the dry leaves on the forest floor.

The magnificent Ramganga river meanders through the entire length of the park; many streams and rivulets join the river, carving the landscape into numerous ridges and ravines. The river finally enters the Kalagarh reservoir created by a multipurpos e hydro-electric dam. The varied topography of the sanctuary harbours several rare and endangered wildlife forms. Visually stunning, Corbett National Park happens to be one of the last stretches of untouched sub-Himalayan wilderness.

Animals indigenous to the Himalayas and even peninsular India can be seen here. Over 50 mammals and nearly 25 reptile species have been recorded. The royal Indian tiger, the elusive leopard, lesser cats of different types and the wild dog are p rominent. Other animals such as the civets, foxes, wild bears and a range of snakes, including the python and cobra, are occasionally sighted. A 10-ft long snake slithered right in front of our vehicle and was quickly lost in the thick vege tation. On another occasion, we were startled to see a roundish stone moving all of a sudden -- it turned out to be a turtle lurking in the cool waters of the river.

The sanctuary is equally popular for diverse species of deer -- the hog deer, sambhar, spotted dear and antelopes such as the neelgai. The Ramganga river is home to mugger crocodile and the fish-eating gharial that are often seen basking in the s un. Bird-life in Corbett is also vivid and spectacular. With nearly 600 species of birds, the park is an ornithologist's delight. We witnessed an action-packed hunt by a pair of crested-hawk eagles which jointly prised a partridge from the thick undergrowth. The prize-catch was taken to a leafless tree and eaten at leisure.

The charming Dhikala tourist complex is situated in the heart of the park. The complex is perched high above the Ramganga reservoir, at the edge of a grassy plateau. From the top of a four-storied watchtower built close to the tourist comp lex, you can have a magnificent view of the shimmering-blue Ramganga. Elephant rides both during sunrise and sunset are popular among tourists; four people share a ride and you can watch the animals from close quarters and take good close-up photographs. Jeep rides are another favourite means of venturing deep into the park to watch the wildlife unhindered.

The wealth of bio-diversity makes the park a favourite among zoologists, botanists, bird-watchers, wildlife photographers and nature-lovers. The park received more than 70,000 visitors during 1999-2000. Although the number is only slightly higher than the figure recorded the previous season, the revenue nearly doubled to Rs 80 lakh. The substantial income from eco-tourism has benefitted not only the wild denizens of the park but also the human population inhabiting the fringe areas.

According to the World Tourism Organisation, by 2020, China will be the world's favourite destination with 137 million foreign visitors. Even small countries such as Malaysia, Thailand and Kenya attract more tourists than India. In order to lure the adventure-seekers, perfect destinations such as Corbett National Park must be promoted actively.

Fact file

How to get there:

By road: From New Delhi, Corbett National Park (Dhikala) is 300 km away and the drive could take 6-8 hours depending on traffic. The park is 5O km from Ramnagar.

By train: There is an overnight train from New Delhi which reaches Ramnagar early in the morning.

Where to stay: The Dhikala tourist campus overlooking the Ramganga Reservoir has cottages and log huts with all basic amenities. Accommodation is limited. Separate dormitories for men and women are available and these contain bunk beds. The Khinanauli, B ijrani, Kanda, Sultan, Sarapduli and Ghairal rest houses located in different parts of the park do not have proper amenities; tourists are advised to carry food and other necessities.

When to visit: The park is open to visitors between mid-November and mid-June. During monsoons, some of the link roads are washed away by flash floods. However, one can stay on the fringes of the protected area where excellent private hotels such as the Claridges, Quality Inn, Tiger Tops, etc. come at off-season rates.

Getting around: Elephants and four-wheelers are the best bet. If you are in a sturdy car, a guide will accompany you into the park.

Conducted tours: Uttar Pradesh Tourism at New Delhi organises two or three-night stays at the park in Dhikala. The fare includes transport, lodging, park fees and elephant rides.

Warning: A rare and unfortunate accident took place in 1985 when a British ornithologist, David Hunt, was killed. In his eagerness, he unwittingly disturbed a tigress with cubs and lost his life. After this incident, no trekking or wa lking is permitted inside the sanctuary. In exceptional cases, with prior permission, one can go on nature-study walks accompanied by gunmen.

Picture : A herd of elephants graze on succulent grass after a mud-bath in the open grassland near Dhikala tourist camp.