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Ropeway to peace

Neeta Gupta

The capital of Magadha in the 4th century B.C. -- one of the first recorded capital cities in the history of India -- Rajgir, is closely associated with the life and times of Gautam Buddha. Just 10 km from Nalanda in Bihar, Rajgir, is sacrosanct to the memory of the followers of both Buddha and Mahavira. While Buddha is supposed to have spent many months in retreat and meditation here, Mahavira spent 14 years in Rajgir and Nalanda. The Digambar sect of the Jains believe that Mahavira was born at Kundalpur, not far from here.

The picturesque Griddhakuta or Vulture's Peak is the site where Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. It was on that occasion that he converted the mighty Magadhan King Bimbisara to the Buddhist order. The Buddha Sangha of J apan has constructed a massive Vishwa Shanti Stupa, Peace Pagoda, at the top of this hill to commemorate this event. Although one can take a bridle path up to the Pagoda, tourists and locals alike prefer to take the unusual aerial chairlift, for the panoramic view it offers of the surrounding hills.

Legends claim that the antiquity of this region goes back to the time of the Mahabharata. The locals point out two parallel furrows cut deep into a rock and 30 ft long which are said to be the track marks of Krishna's powerful chariot.

Rajgir is set in a lush green valley surrounded by rocky hills. The first Buddhist Council meeting was held in the famous Satparni caves in these hills. These caves also have several curative hot water springs which are sacred to Hindus and Buddhists.

One of the most interesting sites in Rajgir is at Amravana, believed to have been the dispensary of Jivaka, the royal physician during the reign of Bimbisara and Ajatshatru.

Other places of interest include the Venuvana which is the site of the first Buddhist monastery built by King Bimbisara; Ajatshatru's fort built in the 6th century; and a recently excavated 6.5-sq.metre stupa believed to have been built by Ajatshatru.

The place that marks the incarceration of Bimbisara by his son, Ajatshatru, is locally referred to as Bimbisara's jail. Bimbisara himself chose this spot from which he could easily watch Lord Buddha climb up to his mountain retreat on Griddhakuta. The cyclopean wall, built of undressed stone, which once enclosed the city, is one of the most important pre-Mauryan stone structures ever found.

The Swarna Bhandar, a cave chamber cut out of a single rock, was said to house the treasury of King Bimbisara.

There are about 26 Jain temples, in and around Rajgir; although the approach to them is difficult, trekkers enjoy the challenge.

Pippala caves, being the highest natural structure around Rajgir, appear to have been used as a watch tower in ancient times. They are also sometimes referred to as Jarasandh ki Baithak, after King Jarasandh in the Mahabharata. The Univer sity of Nalanda, less than 10 km away, was founded in the 5th century A.D. There was a time when over 2,000 faculty members and thousands of students flocked its portals. Rulers of the day used to construct monasteries and temples here for students and visitors. Various antiquities from Nalanda are housed in a museum which clearly show that the Bhikshus not only studied literature and philosophy, but also specialised in the arts such as sculpting and painting.

Festival calendar:

Rajgir celebrates the Malamasa mela once in three years, on the auspicious occasion of the 13th month that accrues in the Indian calendar. The Makar Sankranti mela is also celebrated with great fervour on the last day of the lunar month of Paus, ar ound the middle of January. Devotees offer flowers and bathe at the curative hot water springs.

About 18 km away, at Baragoan, is the famous Sun Temple, where pilgrims flock twice a year -- during Vaishakha (April-May) and Kartik (Oct-Nov) for the chhath puja or sun worship.

The Bihar Government organises a colourful festival of classical and folk dances at Rajgir from October 24-26, every year.

Souvenirs: Stone sculpting is popular in this part of India and one can pick up a number of beautiful objets d'art.

Fact file:

How to reach there:

By air: The nearest airport is at Patna, 107 km away.

By rail: The closest railway station is at Bhaktiyarpur, 54 km away, on the Delhi-Howrah mainline.

By road: Buses and taxis are readily available from Patna and Gaya. Locally one can avail of auto-rickshaws, taxis and cycle-rickshaws to get around town.

Where to stay: There are a number of moderately priced hotels and tourist guest-houses available. The Centaur Hokke Hotel is among the most expensive hotels in town. There are several Bihar State Tourism properties which come at reasonable rates.

For further details contact:

Director of Tourism,

Govt. of Bihar,

Patna -- 800 015 Or

Tourism Information Centre,

Government of Bihar,

216-217 Kanishka Shopping Plaza,

Ashok Road,

New Delhi.

Ph: 011 336 8371

Picture: The aerial chairlifts transport visitors to the Vishwa Shanti Stupa.