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For some snow in summer

The locals proudly refer to it as the `soul of Kumaon'. About 3.5 km long and 500 metres wide, the Pindari glacier is situated to the north of Almora District. It owes its existence primarily to the vast quantities of snow precipitated from the Nanda Dev i and other surrounding summits of the Greater Himalayan range.

Glaciers have held an eternal fascination for trekkers the world over who return, year after year, to recharge themselves in the tranquility, quietude and healing surroundings.

The Pindari glacier offers a soft option, which is not to say that the trek is for beginners or that it lacks adventure. On the contrary, you need a tremendous amount of determination and energy to see you through. Of course, it does help to have nature, in all its subliminal splendour, on your side.

The last few decades have seen a rise in the number of trekkers from within India as against the largely European groups that dominated the scene earlier. This is a healthy trend because there is nothing quite like the mountains when it comes to teaching basic survival strategies in the open.

Starting at Delhi, we took the overnight train to Haldwani (258 km) and proceeded by bus to Bageshwar (approximately 210 km) for an overnight halt. Bageshwar gets its name from a legend that Lord Shiva took the form of a tiger (`baag') to save the river Sarayu flowing through this valley. The river had stopped flowing in respect for Sage Markandeya who sat in meditation in the valley.

The next day we took a bus to Song, where the actual trek began. The entire trek from Song to Zero Point covers about 45 km, including 17 km of steep mountain climbing and about 28 km of gentle climb, parts of it through Alpine meadow-like regions. Seaso ned trekkers normally take about 8-10 days to complete the two-way journey. There are adequate arrangements for night halts at Loharkhet, Dhakuri, Khati, Dwali and Phurkia.

The stretch from Loharkhet to Khati is the most difficult while the first 10 km to Dhakuri is an uphill task. But once there, the scenic panorama more than makes up for the effort. We stayed overnight at Dhakuri and proceeded to Khati the next day.

Khati lies at the confluence of the Pindari and Sundardhunga rivers. It is the largest village enroute to Pindari Glacier. The simplicity and warmth of the village folk is touching. The trek to Phurkia is breathtaking as the tree line gives way to Bugyal s, the Kumaoni equivalent of Alpine meadows. Although we camped at Phurkia, trekkers have the option of breaking journey earlier at Dwali where there is a `well-appointed' tourist rest house.

Ideally one should start early from Phurkia so that the glacier can be reached by sunrise. The trek to Zero Point takes a couple of hours. The last 3.5 km are extremely steep and trekkers are advised to carry glucose sachets to combat any fall in energy levels. We learnt this the hard way. Otherwise, the journey up is dotted with rhododendrons, the sacred Bhojpatras and all kinds of wild flowers.

As one comes face to face with the glacier, the first thought is, ``Is this it?''. Then, as one follows the little trickle of ice and gazes up at the expanse of the frozen river, the feeling is overwhelming -- a sense of reconnecting with one's remote pa st, to an age before Brahma supposedly shattered the glacial silence with `Om'...

Trekkers should start their descent by 11 a.m. at the latest, as inclement weather tends to make the journey hazardous later on. The return trek is fairly easy, as it is mainly downhill. Now is a good time to take a leaf or a flower out of nature's amazi ng botanical library, and tuck it away for keeps.

Trekking groups are advised to make all their essential shopping before departing from Delhi or at Haldwani as the hills will offer none of these ``essentials''. Second, all reservations for the Dak bungalows, PWD rest houses or Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam guest houses should be made well in advance, especially during the trekking season between April and November. Finally, make sure that when you leave, the environment is as pristine as it was when you got there. Don't leave your plastic bags behind!

Besides the Pindari glacier, Uttar Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation has a fairly wide range of trekking options for beginners as well as advanced trekkers and can organise tours for groups of 15 persons or more with trained guides, porters etc.

Fact file

How to get there:

By air: The nearest airport is at Pantnagar, but there are no regular flights. The other options are Delhi and Lucknow.

By train: Kathgodam, the railhead for Haldwani, is well connected to Delhi and other cities in North India. In summer there special trains to meet the holiday rush.

By bus: There are good State-run bus services connecting Delhi to Bageshwar (467 km). However, it is advisable to break journey at Haldwani or Nainital as road journeys in the hills can be very strenuous.

When to go: Although the trek to Pindari is all-season, April to November would be ideal.

Where to stay: Reservations can be made at any UP Tourism office in Delhi, Lucknow or other metros. The Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam also has a well-maintained stock of equipment such as Alpine tents, Holofil sleeping bags, windproof jackets etc. which are made available on prior booking.