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A legacy frozen in stone

Mandu, originally the fort capital of the Parmar rulers of Malwa, crowns the Vindhya range at an altitude of 2,000 m. At the end of the 13th century, it came under the sway of the sultans of Malwa who renamed it Shadiabad or the City of Joy. And indeed, it is a joyous celebration of love, life and architecture manifested in its beautiful palaces such as the Jahaz Mahal and the Hindola Mahal, not to mention the ornamental canals and stately pavilions overlooking the countryside.

Mandu, in Dhar District of Madhya Pradesh, was also known as Mandogarh or `the ruined city'. Said to have been founded in the 6th century A.D, it rose to fame in the 14th-15th century as the capital of the Malwa sultanate.

Any reference to Mandu is incomplete without recalling the love story of Roopmati and Baz Bahadur. It is the stuff of legends that fills one with nostalgia for a peaceful era when love was graceful and refined. The romance of these two royal lovers still echoes in the ballads of the region and, as the legend goes, high up on the crest of a hill on a moonlit night, Roopmati still gazes down at Baz Bahadur from her pavilion that overlooks his beautiful palace.

What to see

Although we made Indore our base and made a couple of day trips to Mandu, the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Department does offer excellent accommodation here at reasonable rates. If one really wants to soak in the architectural splendour and romance of the pla ce, it might be a better idea to stay at Mandu.

The Grand Jami Masjid and Hoshang Shah's tomb, which inspired the Taj Mahal a couple of centuries later, are fine examples of Mandu's rich Afghan architecture. The Jami Masjid, which derives its name from the great mosque with the same name in Damascus, is singular in its architectural proportions. Its beautiful courtyard is enclosed by huge colonnades with a variety of arches, pillars, bays and domes, all aesthetically laid out to evoke a sense of grandeur.

Hoshang Shah's tomb is one of the first marble edifices of its kind constructed in India. The well-proportioned dome, the beautiful lattice-work and its porticos and towers are unique features. It is rumoured that Shah Jahan sent four of his important ar chitects to study this monument in great detail. Among them was Hamid Shah who was involved in the construction of the Taj.

The Jahaz Mahal, or ship palace, was primarily constructed as a palace for pleasure and recreation by Ghias-ud-din Khilji. It is poised between two artificial lakes, Munj Talao and Kapur Talao. When viewed from afar, its open pavilions, balconies overhan ging the water and open terraces make it seem like an imaginative recreation in stone of a royal pleasure craft. The sight is unforgettable on a moonlit night.

Roopmati's Pavilion, originally conceived as an army observatory, became a look-out point for the lovely queen as Baz Bahadur's palace was visible from here. It affords a panoramic view of the fertile Nimar plains with the Narmada flowing across.

The approach to Baz Bahadur's palace is defined by an open stairway built in the early 16th century which echoes the Afghan influence of the period. Its high terraces overlook the magnificent countryside.

The Hindola Mahal, an audience hall, derives its name of `swinging palace' from its sloping side walls which give the impression of swinging. It is valued for its trellis-worked sandstone and elegant facade. To the west of this palace is the famous Champ a Baoli (well) with underground chambers for hot and cold water.

Besides these, the Taveli Mahal and its two large wells, Ujaii (fight) Baoli and Andheri (dark) Baoli, the Nahar Jharokha (tiger balcony) and Dilawar Khan's mosque are other places of interest. The `echo point' is also popular with tourists and sounds fr om this point reverberate in the valley far below. The Lohani caves and temple ruins are also worth a visit. The `Sunset Point' facing the caves also offers a panoramic view of the valley.

One could also visit the Bhil tribals in the nearby villages. They are extremely simple, warm and friendly folk, and never let you off without a traditional meal. It's the only way to sample the local cuisine.

As far as shopping goes, fill your bags with the world's most delicious peanuts and other savouries. Being part of the Vindhya ranga (Malwa), tribal art is clearly visible in the handicrafts and other items. Interesting tribal artefacts can be picked up from surrounding areas. One can also look for leatherwork. Items made from gold and silver are particularly popular among tourists as well as locals. Besides, since Indore is famous for its textiles, you can pick up local weaves for a song!

Pictures by Sarvesh

Fact file

How to get there

By air: The nearest airport is Indore, 100 km away. Connecting flights to Mumbai, Delhi, Gwalior and Bhopal are available.

By rail: Convenient rail connections can be made from Ratlam (124 km away) on the Mumbai-Delhi line and Indore.

By road: Regular bus services connect Mandu with Indore, Dhar, Dhar, Mhow, Ratlam, Ujjain and Bhopal.

Best season

July to March is ideal for travelling to Mandu with the rainy season being the most idyllic.

Where to stay

Reservations for the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Rest Houses can be made either at the central reservations Office in Bhopal or at any of its satellite offices around the country.

Tourist Cottages (Madhya Pradesh Tourism)

Traveller's Lodge (Madhya Pradesh Tourism)

Taveli Mahal Rest House (Archaeological Survey of India)

SADA Rest House (Special Area Development)

PWD and Forest Rest House.

Whom to contact:

* Central Reservations Office,

M.P. State Tourism Development Corporation Ltd.

4th Floor, Gangotri,

T.T. Nagar, Bhopal -- 462 003.

Tel. (0755) 554340/43, 574289

* Satellite Office, New Delhi,

204-205 Kanishka Shopping Plaza,

19, Ashoka Road, New Delhi -- 110001.

Tel. (011) 3341187

* Satellite Office, Mumbai, 74, World Trade Centre,

Cuffe Parade, Colaba,

Mumbai -- 400 005.

Tel: (022) 2187603, 2189191. Fax: (022) 2184860.